Southeast Florida

Key West Marina

In late June and early July, Allison and I traveled to southeast Florida.  We visited Miami, Key West and Key Largo before ending our trip in Hobe Sound with Allison’s father over the Fourth of July.

South Beach, Miami

Our first stop was at Miami’s South Beach.  After checking into the modern and stylish Gale Hotel, we walked along the beach to a restaurant in the heart of the lively Art Deco District.  We ate dinner at a  table on the sidewalk, watching a parade of revelers bathed in the district’s iconic neon glow.

Miami's Art Deco District

The next day Allison and I lounged on the beach, surrounded mostly by Argentineans and Brazilians escaping the southern hemisphere’s winter.  We were soon surprised to find ourselves in the midst of a television production set; a Latin American variety show was filming an episode on the beach!  Comedians, bikini-clad models and one very special little DJ amused us for hours.

Filming a variety show on South Beach

South Beach out of the (beat) box!
(click for video)

From Miami we drove south through the keys on Route 1, crossing miles of bright blue water interspersed by low-lying islets.  After several hours of scenic driving we arrived at Key West, the quirky and boisterous “Conch Republic.”

The Southernmost Point

In Key West we first walked to the Southernmost Point, where a monument marks the southern extremity of the continental United States.  Allison and I snapped a few quick photos in oppressive heat and humidity, then window shopped our way up Duval Street to Mallory Square for the sunset.

Sunset at Mallory Square

I dove the next day while Allison relaxed in the sun.  I had planned to dive with Lost Reef Adventures on the USS VANDENBERG – a sunken satellite tracking ship – but strong current prevented dives on the wreck so we explored two local reefs instead.  Afterward Allison and I wandered the waterfront, then returned to Duval Street for a delicious Italian dinner and evening walk among the raucous crowd.

Hawksbill Sea Turtle

In the morning we had breakfast at the Southernmost Beach Cafe, then began our drive back from Key West at Mile 0 on Route 1.  In the hot June sun, Allison and I remembered that the temperature had been well below zero in January when we were at Route 1’s other end in Fort Kent, Maine!  After a lovely drive through the Keys, we spent a relaxing evening in Key Largo before heading further north to spend the Fourth of July with Allison’s father Jack.

The end  . . .

 

. . .  or the beginning?

Jack lives in Hobe Sound, on the Atlantic coast near West Palm Beach.  His home is close to a beautiful beach at the Hobe Sound National Wildlife Refuge.  Also nearby is Jupiter Inlet, an important passage from the Indian River into the Atlantic.  During our visit I took a dive trip out of Jupiter Inlet with Jupiter Dive Center, viewing sharks, sea turtles, and the huge goliath grouper (each weighing hundreds of pounds) which frequent the area.

 

Goliath Grouper (each approximately 5' long)

In southeast Florida, Allison and I explored new places and also returned to some familiar favorites.  We combined sightseeing, relaxation in the sun, watersports and time with family.  And we visited the southernmost point in the continental United States as part of our journey to America’s corners.  It was fitting to end our trip with a celebration of America’s birthday!


Nurse Shark

Check In from the Crockers

North Crocker and the Crocker Cirque


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Inland Washington and Oregon

The Columbia River Gorge

In late April and May, Allison and I spent four weeks traveling through Alaska and the Pacific Northwest.  This post describes the final portion of that trip: inland Washington and Oregon, including the Yakima Valley, Mount Hood and Portland, Oregon.

The Bonair Winery in Zillah, Washington

Heading out of Seattle on I-90, we quickly left the urban landscape behind and ascended into the heavily wooded Cascade Mountains.  East of Snoqualmie Pass our surroundings changed dramatically, from verdant temperate rainforest to much drier agricultural land and scrubby plains.  After a few hours we reached our destination for two days and nights: the Yakima Valley.

A vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills above Zillah, Washington

In hills above the Yakima Valley, the region’s fertile soil and bright sunshine foster many fruits including red and white grape varieties, pears, cherries and apples.  Vegetables and other truck crops are also grown there; asparagus was being harvested during our visit, and we enjoyed it several times at local restaurants.  Throughout the valley, latino farmworkers are a dominant and colorful cultural influence.

Wine tasting in Prosser, Washington

Yakima Valley’s bountiful vineyards make it one of America’s primary winemaking centers, hosting vintners ranging from giants like Columbia Crest to specialty labels like Hogue and tiny craft wineries like Knight Hill.  One day we drove among vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills above Zillah, stopping and tasting at family operated wineries along the way.  The next day we visited Prosser, where tasting rooms and restaurants catering to oenophiles cluster in close proximity to each other.  We ended our tour with a newfound appreciation of American winemaking, and also a few boxes of bottles destined for home and family!

Wheat fields in the Horse Heaven Hills

The Columbia River Gorge

Having sampled the fruit of the vine to our hearts’ content, we drove south from the Yakima Valley through thousands of acres of wheat fields forming a bright green carpet extending for miles in every direction.  After reaching the Columbia River we turned west, passing through the scenic Columbia River Gorge and then into Oregon near The Dalles.

Orchards south of The Dalles, Oregon

Leaving the highway, we quickly became lost in a maze of back roads leading through scenic orchards and into deep woodlands of the Mount Hood National Forest.  Eventually we emerged on the east side of Mount Hood and proceeded to our next destination: the impressive Timberline Lodge, high on Mount Hood above the town of Government Camp.

Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood

An old familiar place on Mount Hood

I had visited Timberline Lodge several times previously on mountaineering trips, and we were now excited to stay there together.  Located aside the Palmer Glacier, this monumental stone and timber lodge was built as a Works Progress Administration project during the Great Depression; it was dedicated by Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1937.  Our room was a comfortable and well maintained testament to the building’s historic roots, with excellent views uphill through scattered spruce glades leading to the glacier.

Snow and fondue on Memorial Day Weekend!

A fireplace at Timberline Lodge

Mount Hood receives prodigious amounts of snow in the Spring, and although it was Memorial Day weekend we arrived in a snowstorm which produced nearly a foot of heavy powder.  Allison and I admired the wintry landscape from a window table in the cozy and romantic upper dining room, enjoying cheese fondue while warmed by a fire in the gigantic stone hearth.  The next morning I skied a dozen or so runs in newly fallen snow while Allison relaxed fireside in the lodge.

Rose Festival in Portland, Oregon



Portland streetcar

After my morning of skiing, we departed Mount Hood for the trip’s final destination: Portland, Oregon.  Known as the “City of Roses”, Portland was in full colorful bloom both literally and figuratively.  The annual Rose Festival was underway on the banks of the Willamette River, and we rode a modern streetcar downtown to enjoy the festival and walk through some of the city’s vibrant public spaces.

Still at the Clear Creek Distillery

One of our favorite discoveries in Portland was the funky but stylish Nob Hill district, where we stayed.  Nob Hill features many lively restaurants, nightspots and stores; all were within easy walking distance of our hotel.  We particularly enjoyed touring the Clear Creek Distillery, which produces eau de vie fruit brandies such as Kirschwasser and Poire Williams.  Equally memorable was the Peculiarium, a hybrid novelty shop and museum which was grotesque yet oddly welcoming.

Alien autopsy at the Peculiarium

Sasquatch attack!

Our visit to Portland marked the end of our month-long trip through Alaska and the Pacific Northwest.  After such extended travels we looked forward to returning home, but were sorry that our time in the lovely and interesting Rose City had been so short.  We had discovered many treasures in our explorations, but still had much more awaiting us in our continuing journey to America’s corners.
 

Say hello to my little friends!  Public art in Portland, Oregon