Friday, November 14, 2014

Turkey Out of the Box

Bodrum Harbor from Bodrum Castle
In mid-October, Allison and I spent a week in Turkey celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary.  We visited archaeological sites, toured along the Aegean coast, and finished with three days on board a traditional "gulet" sailboat.

Arriving at the La Vista Hotel in Kusadasi
After a long day of travel from Boston via Istanbul, we landed in Izmir and were driven to the nearby coastal resort city of Kusadasi.  There, we settled in at the lovely La Vista Hotel to rest up for the next day's explorations.


Harbor Street in Ephesus

Ruins at Ephesus

In the morning we enjoyed 
a hearty Turkish breakfast, then traveled a short distance to the ancient Greco-Roman city of Ephesus.


The goddess Nike, complete with swoosh!

Statue on Street of the Curetes
Ephesus was one of the most important ports in Asia Minor during its heyday between approximately 1200 B.C. and 1300 A.D.  The city's well-preserved library, temples, amphitheaters and other structures provide a fascinating window into the lifestyle of its residents over the centuries.


Temple of Hadrian
All mod cons: public toilets from circa 100 AD
We were struck by the modernity of life in ancient Ephesus.  The city had a well-developed public water system, with flush toilets and indoor plumbing in many homes.

Terrace houses

Archaeologists reconstructing fragmentary artifacts 
Ephesus was home to many wealthy merchants, and their large terrace houses featured luxuries such as central heating, fountains and extensive artwork.

Allison in her rightful place on a pedestal!
Library of Celsus

The Library of Celsus is a highlight at Ephesus.  Once one of the largest libraries in the world, it held approximately 12,000 scrolls within climate controlled double walls.

Grand Theater
Also noteworthy is Ephesus' Grand Theater.  With seating for 25,000 people, the Grand Theater was used for political and religious gatherings as well as entertainment.

Lunch at Sultankoy
After exploring Ephesus, we were hungry for some of the delicious Turkish cuisine.  Turkey is a major agricultural producer, and many of its popular dishes feature fresh local vegetables such as eggplant and cucumber.

Traditional rug weaving
We enjoyed a delightful lunch al fresco on the grounds of the Sultankoy institute, which was established to help preserve Turkey's rich rug weaving tradition. 

Organic dying of rug textiles
After lunch we toured Sultankoy's facilities, observing the methods taught there for processing textiles like wool and silk and hand weaving them into beautiful finished rugs.    

Amusement park in Kusadasi
(click here for video)
From Sultankoy we returned to Kusadasi and walked through the residential neighborhood surrounding our hotel.  Kusadasi is an important cruise ship port, but our hotel was outside the main tourist district so the walk afforded a glimpse of everyday Turkish life.
 
Kusadasi Castle
That evening we walked into downtown Kusadasi for dinner.  Along the way we passed picturesque Kusadasi Castle and the city's fleet of colorful fishing boats. 


Kusadasi Harbor
The next morning we traveled south from Kusadasi to Bodrum, a port city where the Aegean meets the Mediterranean.  Turkey is a major producer of cotton textiles; our drive passed through miles of cotton fields, and by Wrangler and Lee blue jean factories.    

Cotton fields outside Soke
In Bodrum we first settled in at our hotel, then enjoyed a light lunch of assorted mezes at a waterfront restaurant.

Bodrum Harbor from Bodrum Castle
After lunch we toured some of Bodrum's important attractions.  First was the Tomb of Mausolus at Halicarnassus.  One of the original seven wonders of the world, this ancient tomb was the burial site for King Mausolus and his wife Artemisia.

Tomb of Mausolus
Today little remains of the once huge and impressive tomb; during the Crusades, many of its stones were removed and used to build the nearby Bodrum Castle.  However, the underground burial chamber has been excavated and provides a hint of the tomb's original grandeur.

Underground passage at the Tomb of Mausolus

Gardens at the Tomb of Mausolus
Next we visited Bodrum Castle and the Museum of Underwater Archaeology that it houses.  The castle was constructed by the Knights of Saint John during the Middle Ages; its multiple towers command spectacular views over the harbor. 

Interior of Bodrum Castle's English Tower
The Museum of Underwater Archaeology was fascinating, with exhibits showing various types of vessels and cargo that have transited nearby waters over the millennia.  Many vessels wrecked in those waters, leaving a sea bottom rich in archaeological sites.
 
Alcove in Bodrum Castle's English Tower
The next morning, we embarked on a sea voyage of our own: three days on board S/V REMO, a 62' traditional gulet sailboat

S/V REMO underway
S/V REMO was crewed by a delightful father and son team, who not only ably navigated the vessel but also impressed us with the quality and variety of Turkish food that they served. 
 
Departing Bodrum Harbor on board S/V REMO
Over our leisurely three days on board we swam, snorkeled and walked on coastal trails. 


S/V REMO at anchor
 
Exploring ruins in hills east of Bodrum
On the final day of our cruise we rendezvoused with a local dive boat and I made two SCUBA dives at a site off Kara Ada ("Black") Island.  The extremely clear water provided excellent underwater visibility.


Rendezvous with dive boat
On the first dive, my guide led me to two amphorae dating from before Christ.  On the second, we explored the wreck of a sunken Turkish Coast Guard vessel. 
 
Amphorae like those at Kara Ada dive site
Our final night on board S/V REMO was spent in Bodrum's harbor, because we had to leave early the next morning. 
   
Bodrum waterfront
From S/V REMO's berth on the waterfront, we were able to explore Bodrum on foot. 

Souvenir shopping
Allison and I spent hours perusing the city's colorful markets.  We shopped for souvenirs, and took in the harbor view from waterfront cafes.

Bodrum greengrocer
We immensely enjoyed our trip to Turkey.  The country's diverse landscapes and coast, delicious food and legendary hospitality provide many reasons for us to return some day.


Bodrum harbor at night

Monday, October 20, 2014

Check In from Dive Site at Kara Ada Island, Turkey

Dive boat at Kara Ada Island
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Check In from S/V REMO Anchorage, Turkish Aegean

S/V REMO at anchor
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Check In from Marina Vista Hotel, Bodrum Turkey

The Marina Vista Hotel in Bodrum, Turkey
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Check In from Ephesus, Turkey

Odeon Theater in Ephesus, Turkey
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Check In from Lavista Hotel, Kusadasi Turkey

The Lavista Hotel in Kusadasi, Turkey
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Thursday, April 3, 2014

Little Concord Pond

Allison on Little Concord Pond
On March 14, Allison and I took advantage of a sunny day and a lot of fresh new snow to enjoy some snowshoeing in Maine's Oxford Hills.  For our destination we chose Little Concord Pond, a small mountain pond which feels very remote but is only about 1 1/2 hours from Portland.

The Bald Mountain Trail
To reach the pond, we followed the first section of the Bald Mountain Trail.  Although this portion of the trail (following an old woods road) is level and clear, we got a good workout breaking trail through the deep soft snow!  After reaching the frozen pond we crossed to its far side, taking in the views of Bald Mountain and the nearby wind farm development on Spruce Mountain.

Jay on Little Concord Pond

Monday, March 31, 2014

Mount Washington

A sea of clouds in Pinkham Notch, from the Lion's Head
On Saturday, March 29, I climbed to the summit of Mount Washington via the Tuckerman Ravine and Lion's Head Trails.  The weather was excellent with sunny skies, moderate temperature and light winds.  As a result, there were many climbers enjoying the mountain with me.  But I got an early start, beating the crowds to reach the summit well before noon and finishing my climb by 2 p.m.  My round trip time to the summit and back was only 5 hours and 50 minutes, one of my best ever.

The headwall of Tuckerman Ravine from the Lion's Head

Check In from Mount Washington


On the summit of Mount Washington
 
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Saturday, January 25, 2014

Katahdin in Winter

Katahdin from Abol Stream
In mid-January I led a six man expedition into Baxter State Park.  Over four days we skied and hiked to camps at Roaring Brook and Chimney Pond, then summited Katahdin’s Baxter Peak and nearby Hamlin Peak before returning home safely.

Preparing for the trek to Roaring Brook
(photo courtesy of Rick Mulhern)
In the winter, Baxter State Park’s roads are unplowed so there are long approaches to the campgrounds surrounding Katahdin.  To handle all of the climbing and camping gear needed for our summit attempt, team members skied or hiked while carrying backpacks and also hauling sleds with additional loads.  On the first day we traveled approximately 13 miles, from the park entrance at Abol Bridge to Roaring Brook Campground.

Dinner in the Roaring Brook Bunkhouse
(photo courtesy of Rick Mulhern)
At Roaring Brook we stayed in a comfortable bunkhouse heated by a woodstove.  For our communal dinner, we enjoyed a delicious lasagna hauled in on one of the sleds!


Ascending the Chimney Pond Trail
(photo courtesy of Rick Mulhern)

Crossing one of the Basin Ponds

In the morning, we stowed our skis under the bunkhouse and hiked up to Chimney Pond.  Along the way we passed over one of the frozen Basin Ponds; above there, the trail steepened and narrowed.


The Chimney Pond Bunkhouse


Inside the Chimney Pond Bunkhouse
At Chimney Pond, we first settled into the bunkhouse.  As at Roaring Brook, the Chimney Pond Bunkhouse provided a warm and spacious place for us to eat, sleep and relax.
Later that afternoon, we ascended to a clearing near the base of the Saddle Slide to assess our summit route and practice ice axe skills and other alpine climbing techniques.

Practicing ice axe skills
(photo courtesy of Rick Mulhern)


Approaching the Saddle Slide
(photo courtesy of Rick Mulhern)
The next morning, we left camp early for our summit attempt.  Our route ascended the steep Saddle Slide, then proceeded across Katahdin’s tableland and up the summit dome to Baxter Peak, the highest point in Maine.  We climbed through blowing snow, which created a whiteout in snowfields on the summit dome.

Ascending the Saddle Slide
(photo courtesy of Rick Mulhern)
Whiteout on the summit dome
(photo courtesy of Rick Mulhern)

Dann, Ben and Trevor on Baxter Peak
After reaching Baxter Peak, we descended back to the tableland and then up to Hamlin Peak where we spent only a few cold minutes.  Our descent route followed the narrow crest of Hamlin Ridge, over rocky pinnacles and then down into the woods between Katahdin’s North and South Basins.  Eventually we made our way back to Chimney Pond, arriving at the bunkhouse 6 hours and 15 minutes after we started.

Ben, Mason and Trevor on Hamlin Peak
Descending Hamlin Ridge
(photo courtesy of Rick Mulhern)


Chimney Pond bunkroom
That night we slept well after happily celebrating our success on the upper mountain.  In the morning we began our long trek out of the park to civilization, first pulling and riding our sleds down to Roaring Brook before skiing or hiking back to our cars at Abol Bridge.

Trekking out from Roaring Brook
(click here for video courtesy of Ben Jessup)
This trip was my seventh into Baxter State Park in winter; every one of them has been memorable and enjoyable, whether we summited or not.  Contributing to and sharing such a wonderful experience while remaining safe was our team’s greatest success.

Chimney Pond and the South Basin