Inland Washington and Oregon

The Columbia River Gorge

In late April and May, Allison and I spent four weeks traveling through Alaska and the Pacific Northwest.  This post describes the final portion of that trip: inland Washington and Oregon, including the Yakima Valley, Mount Hood and Portland, Oregon.

The Bonair Winery in Zillah, Washington

Heading out of Seattle on I-90, we quickly left the urban landscape behind and ascended into the heavily wooded Cascade Mountains.  East of Snoqualmie Pass our surroundings changed dramatically, from verdant temperate rainforest to much drier agricultural land and scrubby plains.  After a few hours we reached our destination for two days and nights: the Yakima Valley.

A vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills above Zillah, Washington

In hills above the Yakima Valley, the region’s fertile soil and bright sunshine foster many fruits including red and white grape varieties, pears, cherries and apples.  Vegetables and other truck crops are also grown there; asparagus was being harvested during our visit, and we enjoyed it several times at local restaurants.  Throughout the valley, latino farmworkers are a dominant and colorful cultural influence.

Wine tasting in Prosser, Washington

Yakima Valley’s bountiful vineyards make it one of America’s primary winemaking centers, hosting vintners ranging from giants like Columbia Crest to specialty labels like Hogue and tiny craft wineries like Knight Hill.  One day we drove among vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills above Zillah, stopping and tasting at family operated wineries along the way.  The next day we visited Prosser, where tasting rooms and restaurants catering to oenophiles cluster in close proximity to each other.  We ended our tour with a newfound appreciation of American winemaking, and also a few boxes of bottles destined for home and family!

Wheat fields in the Horse Heaven Hills

The Columbia River Gorge

Having sampled the fruit of the vine to our hearts’ content, we drove south from the Yakima Valley through thousands of acres of wheat fields forming a bright green carpet extending for miles in every direction.  After reaching the Columbia River we turned west, passing through the scenic Columbia River Gorge and then into Oregon near The Dalles.

Orchards south of The Dalles, Oregon

Leaving the highway, we quickly became lost in a maze of back roads leading through scenic orchards and into deep woodlands of the Mount Hood National Forest.  Eventually we emerged on the east side of Mount Hood and proceeded to our next destination: the impressive Timberline Lodge, high on Mount Hood above the town of Government Camp.

Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood

An old familiar place on Mount Hood

I had visited Timberline Lodge several times previously on mountaineering trips, and we were now excited to stay there together.  Located aside the Palmer Glacier, this monumental stone and timber lodge was built as a Works Progress Administration project during the Great Depression; it was dedicated by Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1937.  Our room was a comfortable and well maintained testament to the building’s historic roots, with excellent views uphill through scattered spruce glades leading to the glacier.

Snow and fondue on Memorial Day Weekend!

A fireplace at Timberline Lodge

Mount Hood receives prodigious amounts of snow in the Spring, and although it was Memorial Day weekend we arrived in a snowstorm which produced nearly a foot of heavy powder.  Allison and I admired the wintry landscape from a window table in the cozy and romantic upper dining room, enjoying cheese fondue while warmed by a fire in the gigantic stone hearth.  The next morning I skied a dozen or so runs in newly fallen snow while Allison relaxed fireside in the lodge.

Rose Festival in Portland, Oregon



Portland streetcar

After my morning of skiing, we departed Mount Hood for the trip’s final destination: Portland, Oregon.  Known as the “City of Roses”, Portland was in full colorful bloom both literally and figuratively.  The annual Rose Festival was underway on the banks of the Willamette River, and we rode a modern streetcar downtown to enjoy the festival and walk through some of the city’s vibrant public spaces.

Still at the Clear Creek Distillery

One of our favorite discoveries in Portland was the funky but stylish Nob Hill district, where we stayed.  Nob Hill features many lively restaurants, nightspots and stores; all were within easy walking distance of our hotel.  We particularly enjoyed touring the Clear Creek Distillery, which produces eau de vie fruit brandies such as Kirschwasser and Poire Williams.  Equally memorable was the Peculiarium, a hybrid novelty shop and museum which was grotesque yet oddly welcoming.

Alien autopsy at the Peculiarium

Sasquatch attack!

Our visit to Portland marked the end of our month-long trip through Alaska and the Pacific Northwest.  After such extended travels we looked forward to returning home, but were sorry that our time in the lovely and interesting Rose City had been so short.  We had discovered many treasures in our explorations, but still had much more awaiting us in our continuing journey to America’s corners.
 

Say hello to my little friends!  Public art in Portland, Oregon