Southeast Florida

Key West Marina

In late June and early July, Allison and I traveled to southeast Florida.  We visited Miami, Key West and Key Largo before ending our trip in Hobe Sound with Allison’s father over the Fourth of July.

South Beach, Miami

Our first stop was at Miami’s South Beach.  After checking into the modern and stylish Gale Hotel, we walked along the beach to a restaurant in the heart of the lively Art Deco District.  We ate dinner at a  table on the sidewalk, watching a parade of revelers bathed in the district’s iconic neon glow.

Miami's Art Deco District

The next day Allison and I lounged on the beach, surrounded mostly by Argentineans and Brazilians escaping the southern hemisphere’s winter.  We were soon surprised to find ourselves in the midst of a television production set; a Latin American variety show was filming an episode on the beach!  Comedians, bikini-clad models and one very special little DJ amused us for hours.

Filming a variety show on South Beach

South Beach out of the (beat) box!
(click for video)

From Miami we drove south through the keys on Route 1, crossing miles of bright blue water interspersed by low-lying islets.  After several hours of scenic driving we arrived at Key West, the quirky and boisterous “Conch Republic.”

The Southernmost Point

In Key West we first walked to the Southernmost Point, where a monument marks the southern extremity of the continental United States.  Allison and I snapped a few quick photos in oppressive heat and humidity, then window shopped our way up Duval Street to Mallory Square for the sunset.

Sunset at Mallory Square

I dove the next day while Allison relaxed in the sun.  I had planned to dive with Lost Reef Adventures on the USS VANDENBERG – a sunken satellite tracking ship – but strong current prevented dives on the wreck so we explored two local reefs instead.  Afterward Allison and I wandered the waterfront, then returned to Duval Street for a delicious Italian dinner and evening walk among the raucous crowd.

Hawksbill Sea Turtle

In the morning we had breakfast at the Southernmost Beach Cafe, then began our drive back from Key West at Mile 0 on Route 1.  In the hot June sun, Allison and I remembered that the temperature had been well below zero in January when we were at Route 1’s other end in Fort Kent, Maine!  After a lovely drive through the Keys, we spent a relaxing evening in Key Largo before heading further north to spend the Fourth of July with Allison’s father Jack.

The end  . . .

 

. . .  or the beginning?

Jack lives in Hobe Sound, on the Atlantic coast near West Palm Beach.  His home is close to a beautiful beach at the Hobe Sound National Wildlife Refuge.  Also nearby is Jupiter Inlet, an important passage from the Indian River into the Atlantic.  During our visit I took a dive trip out of Jupiter Inlet with Jupiter Dive Center, viewing sharks, sea turtles, and the huge goliath grouper (each weighing hundreds of pounds) which frequent the area.

 

Goliath Grouper (each approximately 5' long)

In southeast Florida, Allison and I explored new places and also returned to some familiar favorites.  We combined sightseeing, relaxation in the sun, watersports and time with family.  And we visited the southernmost point in the continental United States as part of our journey to America’s corners.  It was fitting to end our trip with a celebration of America’s birthday!


Nurse Shark

Check In from the Crockers

North Crocker and the Crocker Cirque


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Inland Washington and Oregon

The Columbia River Gorge

In late April and May, Allison and I spent four weeks traveling through Alaska and the Pacific Northwest.  This post describes the final portion of that trip: inland Washington and Oregon, including the Yakima Valley, Mount Hood and Portland, Oregon.

The Bonair Winery in Zillah, Washington

Heading out of Seattle on I-90, we quickly left the urban landscape behind and ascended into the heavily wooded Cascade Mountains.  East of Snoqualmie Pass our surroundings changed dramatically, from verdant temperate rainforest to much drier agricultural land and scrubby plains.  After a few hours we reached our destination for two days and nights: the Yakima Valley.

A vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills above Zillah, Washington

In hills above the Yakima Valley, the region’s fertile soil and bright sunshine foster many fruits including red and white grape varieties, pears, cherries and apples.  Vegetables and other truck crops are also grown there; asparagus was being harvested during our visit, and we enjoyed it several times at local restaurants.  Throughout the valley, latino farmworkers are a dominant and colorful cultural influence.

Wine tasting in Prosser, Washington

Yakima Valley’s bountiful vineyards make it one of America’s primary winemaking centers, hosting vintners ranging from giants like Columbia Crest to specialty labels like Hogue and tiny craft wineries like Knight Hill.  One day we drove among vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills above Zillah, stopping and tasting at family operated wineries along the way.  The next day we visited Prosser, where tasting rooms and restaurants catering to oenophiles cluster in close proximity to each other.  We ended our tour with a newfound appreciation of American winemaking, and also a few boxes of bottles destined for home and family!

Wheat fields in the Horse Heaven Hills

The Columbia River Gorge

Having sampled the fruit of the vine to our hearts’ content, we drove south from the Yakima Valley through thousands of acres of wheat fields forming a bright green carpet extending for miles in every direction.  After reaching the Columbia River we turned west, passing through the scenic Columbia River Gorge and then into Oregon near The Dalles.

Orchards south of The Dalles, Oregon

Leaving the highway, we quickly became lost in a maze of back roads leading through scenic orchards and into deep woodlands of the Mount Hood National Forest.  Eventually we emerged on the east side of Mount Hood and proceeded to our next destination: the impressive Timberline Lodge, high on Mount Hood above the town of Government Camp.

Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood

An old familiar place on Mount Hood

I had visited Timberline Lodge several times previously on mountaineering trips, and we were now excited to stay there together.  Located aside the Palmer Glacier, this monumental stone and timber lodge was built as a Works Progress Administration project during the Great Depression; it was dedicated by Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1937.  Our room was a comfortable and well maintained testament to the building’s historic roots, with excellent views uphill through scattered spruce glades leading to the glacier.

Snow and fondue on Memorial Day Weekend!

A fireplace at Timberline Lodge

Mount Hood receives prodigious amounts of snow in the Spring, and although it was Memorial Day weekend we arrived in a snowstorm which produced nearly a foot of heavy powder.  Allison and I admired the wintry landscape from a window table in the cozy and romantic upper dining room, enjoying cheese fondue while warmed by a fire in the gigantic stone hearth.  The next morning I skied a dozen or so runs in newly fallen snow while Allison relaxed fireside in the lodge.

Rose Festival in Portland, Oregon



Portland streetcar

After my morning of skiing, we departed Mount Hood for the trip’s final destination: Portland, Oregon.  Known as the “City of Roses”, Portland was in full colorful bloom both literally and figuratively.  The annual Rose Festival was underway on the banks of the Willamette River, and we rode a modern streetcar downtown to enjoy the festival and walk through some of the city’s vibrant public spaces.

Still at the Clear Creek Distillery

One of our favorite discoveries in Portland was the funky but stylish Nob Hill district, where we stayed.  Nob Hill features many lively restaurants, nightspots and stores; all were within easy walking distance of our hotel.  We particularly enjoyed touring the Clear Creek Distillery, which produces eau de vie fruit brandies such as Kirschwasser and Poire Williams.  Equally memorable was the Peculiarium, a hybrid novelty shop and museum which was grotesque yet oddly welcoming.

Alien autopsy at the Peculiarium

Sasquatch attack!

Our visit to Portland marked the end of our month-long trip through Alaska and the Pacific Northwest.  After such extended travels we looked forward to returning home, but were sorry that our time in the lovely and interesting Rose City had been so short.  We had discovered many treasures in our explorations, but still had much more awaiting us in our continuing journey to America’s corners.
 

Say hello to my little friends!  Public art in Portland, Oregon

Check In from Jeffrey's Ledge



Fred's big pollock caught on Jeffrey's Ledge


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Mount Adams via King Ravine

King Ravine, with the Great Gully at center



On August 20, 2013, I climbed to the summit of Mount Adams in New Hampshire.  Mount Adams is the second highest mountain in the northeast; it is located north of Mount Washington, in the Presidential Range.

Waterfall along the King Ravine Trail

I reached the summit through King Ravine, a deep bowl on the mountain’s north side.  I hiked on the King Ravine Trail, a rugged trail which follows a rocky stream and passes among many huge boulders at the base of the ravine.

Boulder cave on the Subway
(note arrow trail marker at center) 

Hiking through King Ravine, I took a short detour on the Subway Trail which squeezes through several narrow cracks and caves formed by the jumbled boulders.

Waterfall in the Great Gully

To ascend the ravine’s steep wall, I took the spectacular Great Gully Trail.  The AMC White Mountain Guide describes the Great Gully Trail as “extremely steep and rough” and “lightly used and marked,” with “one particularly difficult scramble.”  I found the challenging trail fun and exciting!

Mount Madison from Mount Adams

From the top of the Great Gully Trail, it was a short hike through Thunderstorm Junction to the top of Mount Adams.  The summit was partially obscured by blowing clouds, but I still enjoyed a dramatic view of nearby Mount Madison.

Randolph Valley from the Air Line
(King Ravine left and Durand Ridge right of center)

I descended from the summit back to my car on the Air Line, a particularly scenic trail which follows the crest of Durand Ridge.  From the Air Line, I had an excellent view of my ascent route up the Great Gully in King Ravine.



King Ravine from the Air Line
(Great Gully slightly right of center)


 

Coastal Washington

Pike Place Market in Seattle

In late April and May, Allison and I spent four weeks traveling through Alaska and the Pacific Northwest.  This post describes the portion of our trip in coastal Washington, including Bellingham, Peace Arch Park, the San Juan Islands and Seattle.

The International Peace Arch at Peace Arch Park

We arrived in Bellingham early in the morning on board the M/V COLUMBIA, the largest ferry in the Alaska Marine Highway system.  Bellingham is a college town – home of Western Washington University – and its lively downtown reflected that with many quirky coffee shops, restaurants, stores and galleries.  Bellingham’s busy waterfront is home to a mix of fishing boats and yachts.

Art appreciation at Peace Arch Park

From Bellingham we traveled a short distance north to America’s northwest corner, at Peace Arch Park in Blaine on Washington’s border with British Columbia.  Visitors to this unusual park can wander freely across the international frontier, enjoying lush plantings and a sculpture garden.  The park’s centerpiece is the International Peace Arch, a monument to America’s and Canada’s shared friendship and common heritage.  Allison and I were struck by the park’s nearly complete lack of border controls, which was in such marked contrast to the border between San Diego and Tijuana which we visited only weeks earlier.

America's border with Canada

The next morning we drove from Bellingham to Anacortes, where we would board a ferry to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island.  Along the way I sampled a special breakfast treat at Joy’s Bakery & Cafe in Sedro Woolley: a crunchy coconut pancake.  It was both out of the box and out of this world!



Coconut pancake at Joy's in Sedro Woolley



Ferry to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island

The ferry route from Anacortes to Friday Harbor meandered among several of the San Juan Islands – including Orcas Island and Lopez Island – before terminating on San Juan Island itself.  Allison and I were very much taken with these enchanting islands.  San Juan Island features small tidy farms, excellent yacht harbors, miles of scenic shoreline and a gentle rolling landscape where colorful flowers intermingle with fragrant spruce forests.  Orcas (killer whales) frequently swim in the Haro Strait, between San Juan Island and Vancouver Island in British Columbia.

Orcas (killer whales) in the Haro Strait

We were particularly impressed by Roche Harbor, a resort on the former site of historic limestone quarries and kilns.  Roche Harbor’s former industrial facilities have been replaced by a picturesque village, marina and expansive gardens.  Outdoor sculpture galleries lie on either side of the village, tempting visitors to linger for hours.

Roche Harbor on San Juan Island

We also visited the San Juan Island National Historical Park and San Juan Islands National Monument, where we hiked to Cattle Point Light before picnicking at a rocky beach nearby.  Allison and I thoroughly enjoyed the San Juan Islands and were reluctant to leave, but look forward to visiting again when we have the opportunity.  In the meantime, our sadness at leaving was tempered by excited anticipation over our next destination: Seattle.

"Allison's World" (Cattle Point Light)

Allison and I have visited Seattle many times; we love the vibrant and diverse city.  Our previous visits have often centered around family events or mountaineering trips to the nearby cascades, but on this occasion Allison and I immersed ourselves in Seattle’s culture and neighborhoods.  We stayed in the funky Queen Anne District, which is full of popular restaurants and close to the Seattle Center’s many theaters and other attractions.


The Experience Music Project's Sound Lab

1935 Gibson experimental electric guitar

We walked through the Seattle Center and around the Space Needle on our way to the Experience Music Project, an interactive museum of music, science fiction and popular culture.  At the Experience Music Project we toured exhibits on Jimi Hendrix and Nirvana, wandered among an extensive display of science fiction memorabilia, and played with a variety of musical instruments and sound equipment in the Sound Lab.

Fresh seafood at Pike Place Market

We then rode the Seattle Center Monorail downtown and walked to Pike Place Market.  At this iconic Seattle landmark we wandered among the merchants’ displays of flowers, salmon, oysters, Dungeness crabs, fruit, berries and other Pacific Northwest products.  The weather was sunny and warm, allowing us to enjoy lunch al fresco in a plaza overlooking the harbor.

Seattle International Film Festival marquee

The Seattle International Film Festival was underway while we were in Seattle, and we participated by viewing one of the entries: Stuck In Love, starring Greg Kinnear and Jennifer Connelly.  We found it both funny and touching, and enjoyed the opportunity to submit our ballots for the festival’s Golden Space Needle and other awards.

The Fremont Troll

Our final stop in Seattle was in the Fremont neighborhood, on the north side of the Lake Washington Ship Canal.  Fremont has industrial roots but is becoming gentrified, so it offers an eclectic mix of trendy stores and restaurants interspersed with some grittier businesses and housing stock.  Allison and I visited the Fremont Troll, an enormous and imaginative community sculpture which includes an actual VW beetle.  We also stopped by the Ship Canal’s locks, where spawning salmon can often be seen migrating upstream through a series of fish ladders.

Locks on the Lake Washington Ship Canal

We have visited coastal Washington before, but on this trip we made every effort to see new places and things rather than merely revisiting old familiar favorites. Our efforts paid off, and now we have several new favorites including the San Juan Islands in particular.  Having thoroughly enjoyed these wonderful new experiences, we were ready to proceed with the final phase of this trip: inland Washington and Oregon!

Guitar sculpture at the Experience Music Project